Yesterday we got up early with a few others from the hostel, determined to beat the crowds and the hours of waiting to see Christ the Redeemer in the Corcovado area. We arrived only to find that the torrential storm
the day previously had taken down trees, which were now blocking the line for the cable car. "Leaves on the line"...sounds very Scotrail doesn't it?
Instead our Corcovado group opted to go on a Favela Tour. I was a little unsure about doing one of these - it seemed a little voyeuristic. In any case we were convinced by rave reviews and assurances that some of the profits go to charitable projects there, and so went along with another seven or so people. Our group included a middle aged couple who looked like they'd perhaps been expecting something else, two Brits, one of whom was gunning for a Napolean Dynamite look and the other channelling Russel Brand, and a heap of Canadians and Americans who made us cringe every few moments. I've never seen anyone get so excited about a big KFC as they did.
Anyway, the tour. We went to Rocinha, Rio's biggest favela, housing approx 100,000 people on a steep hillside. It's a chaotic place, where everything is taken up on foot, as the streets are so narrow walking side by side is often impossible. While there are no roads there's an abundance of Sky HD satellite dishes, a bizarre sight.
The enormous Rocinha favela
We visited a roof top, and art area where we viewed artwork painted by locals, including teens, a bakery, were entertained by dancing and music and visited a local daycare centre supported by funds from the tour. At each stop there was an opportunity to support the community in some way - buy a piece of art, a handmade bracelet, a bun from the bakery, or even just by placing a few coins or notes in the daycare centre donation box. There were some interesting insights - areas are cemented over to prevent landslips in the rain, for example.
We'd been told from the outset a few rules, some common sense dos and don'ts. The most stressed rule was simply not to take photos of any adults in the favela, as some will still be involved in the drugs trade and wouldn't take kindly to it. It seems pretty common sense, but unfortunately one of the brahser guys with us didn't follow the rules, and ended up in a little altercation with a guy who couldn't have been any older than 20. He went crazy when he thought he'd been photographed while in a play fight involving cable ties with his friends. Whether he had or not I don't know (the guide checked the camera).
I'd love to know more about how the favela was pacified- how do you turn around a culture and structure of drug lord rule? The guide explained a whole new raft of policemen were trained up to counteract the old corrupt police regime, and 700 new ones are placed in on a regular basis, I guess to prevent corruption. The marks of warfare between the police and drug gangs are very visible, with bullet holes in the walls and the like. Interestingly, with the favela being on the hills, they could see the police coming at a distance, and would let off fireworks to warn people of police raids.
All and all, an interesting insight into life in the favela, and hopefully something that helps promote economy within the area rather than deplete it.
Lapa's colourful steps...spot the loser in the red waterproof
Created as a tribute to the Brazilian people, the 250 steps are adorned by weird and wonderful tiles, with the Simpson's sitting beside pictures of Diana, depictions of Brazilian women and sayings in all sorts of languages. I could have stayed there all day taking photos - wish I'd had my SLR instead of my little digital camera (it's a tough life...afternoon naps and digital cameras, waa waa waa. I realise how lucky I am!). The place is fascinating, made all the more fiction-like with the mysterious death surrounding the step's creator, Jorge Selaron, who was found dead on his steps, with burn marks on his body.
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